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Mechanical Keyboards

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Mechanical Keyboards Rules and guidelines: 1. Be mature and respectful. Its fine to argue, but be civil about it. 2. Don't spam. 3. Keep the room SFW and appropriate for all ages. 4. Don't post or link anything illegal. 5. Try to stay on topic for the room.36 Servers

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16 May 2022
@stringlapse:matrix.orgstringlapseLink for anyone curious https://github.com/brickbots/framedeck17:12:59
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe Orbthe only problem with this foemfactor is how you'd have to lean awkwardly over it to see the screen20:03:15
17 May 2022
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattHello everyone, I experimenting with a case design similar to the IMK Corne case (https://keyhive.xyz/shop/aluminum-corne-helidox-case), in the sense that I'd like the switch plate to be part of the case. Do you think 3D printed plastic would be suitable to accomplish this, strong enough, or won't warp ? If so, what kind (I don't know much about 3d printing). Right now I'm aiming for a thickness of 1.5mm for the switch plate, is it appropriate ? Thanks for your help !20:15:21
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe Orb
In reply to @starmatt:matrix.org
Hello everyone, I experimenting with a case design similar to the IMK Corne case (https://keyhive.xyz/shop/aluminum-corne-helidox-case), in the sense that I'd like the switch plate to be part of the case. Do you think 3D printed plastic would be suitable to accomplish this, strong enough, or won't warp ? If so, what kind (I don't know much about 3d printing). Right now I'm aiming for a thickness of 1.5mm for the switch plate, is it appropriate ? Thanks for your help !
I just made a keyboard with a 3d-printed case that's also its plate, and I found that you can design it in such a way that it works well. Its material is Shapeways' "strong and flexible" plastic. The case is 3mm thick all over, but the switches need a 1.5mm-thick plate to pop into, so the switch holes in the 3mm plate have 1.5mm cut out to accomodate that. My keyboard is also on the larger side, so to prevent the plastic case+plate from flexing when a key is pressed hard, I had to add rigid support beams inside the case to make sure it stays entirely rigid.
21:11:38
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattInteresting, thanks !21:13:10
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbScreenshot 2022-05-17--15:15--516.png
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21:15:23
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbThis is what the design that worked for me looks like, on the inside. You see how each hole has 1.5mm of the 3mm thickness removed where the switch mounting clips go, so the mounting clips have a 1.5mm plate to clip into. If you do that, common Cherry/Gateron/Kailh/etc. switches will mount properly, and your plate can be as thick as you want (mine is 3mm, which feels very rigid, but it could have been 5mm too). You can also see those support beams inside the keyboard that keeps the plastic plate from flexing.21:17:36
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbThe only problem left is the problem that all hand-wired boards have: if you pull hard enough, the switches will pop out, because they're not soldered to a rigid PCB. If you're sure you'll never swap switches, you could use a little hot glue to solve that.21:18:35
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbScreenshot 2022-05-17--15:20--519.png
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21:20:20
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbThe cutout for the switch holes looks like this: 14mm by 14mm (slightly smaller would provide a tighter fit that may be better though), with the cutout 1.5mm from the top and extending 1mm out from it21:21:58
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattI see, it's an interesting approach21:28:15
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattand that looks like a crazy keyboard :D21:28:22
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe Orbdiy one-piece orthosplit keyboard.jpg
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21:29:49
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe Orb(the board looks like this)21:29:55
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattlooks very nice21:30:24
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattScreenshot_20220517_233101.png
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21:32:29
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattHere's what I'm going for21:32:29
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattScreenshot_20220517_233112.png
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21:32:30
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbYou could probably get the solidity of the case good by just putting screws and spacers through from the top plate to the bottom21:34:09
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe OrbI should've used FreeCAD, but I already knew Blender so I made do with it, and some of my measurements I straight-up just zoomed in and eyeballed21:34:57
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattyep, that's the plan21:35:01
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattbottom plate would be 3mm acrylic, only connected to the case via the switch plate21:36:06
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmattI'm still learning Freecad, all this is very new to me, but fun :D21:36:28
@starmatt:matrix.orgstarmatt * bottom plate would be 3mm acrylic, only connected to the case via the switch plate (through spacers and screws)21:36:48
@the-orb:matrix.orgThe Orb
In reply to @starmatt:matrix.org
bottom plate would be 3mm acrylic, only connected to the case via the switch plate (through spacers and screws)
sounds perfect. mine has a few layers of acrylic plates for the bottom: one thick one with cutouts that the teensy and its cable fit into, one below that so there's a "floor" to the slots they fit into, and then a 1.5mm steel plate underneath for weight and bottom-heaviness
21:37:57
18 May 2022
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